“Is it open?”
It was CJ asking.
He
was wild-eyed, and partly slumped on his bar stool,
“Is
the door open?” he asked. He had mischiviouse smile
It
was open all right.
It was evening, and it was morning, in Vegas.
We
arrived in Vegas on a Wednesday afternoon.
The
morning started off rough enough, the night before we worked on a bottle of of
Laphroig and a 12 pack at Aaron's place before heading to the Big Foot Lodge, a
rustic Cabin themed bar a few blocks away. A national forest where the trees
are swizzle sticks, and the streams run deep with beer and high proof cider.
Later we went back to Aarons place and watched “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas”.
I say watched, but it was mostly trying
to focus well enough to grab the bottle of Jameson we were swigging from. Last
thing I remember was cutting into a grapefruit, and then waking up on the
floor in my "day" clothes.
So
I dozed in the van until Barstow, where we stopped for lunch.
If
you have never been to Barstow, here is the deal:
Barstow
is a shithole.
If
you are from Barstow, my apologies.
I
am sorry you live in a shithole.
It
was hot.
Not
like, “hey, it sure is warm” hot, but more like a thick wet fucking wool
blanket of everything in the world being crappy hot.
Thompson
called it bat country, and although I wasn’t seeing any at the moment, my head
was certainly swooping around like a blind rodent, perhaps just exercising,
getting used to what was to come.
As we continued our trek across the desert, Aaron amused us with a
dramatic reading. Today’s selection, Thompson’s "The
Kentucky Derby Is Decadent and Depraved". It predates Fear and Loathing,
and is a little less extreme, but it helps set the mood. Vegas appears on the
horizon, and now, just as every time we cross this desert, I look out into the
sand and scrub, and can’t help but wonder how many bodies are out there? How
much of the grit is bone dust? Gambling debts unpaid, mob deals gone bad. Drug
dealers, drug addicts, hookers, all in the eternal sleep. I always think
that if you could scream “Last Call!” loud enough, and the ghosts all stood up,
my guess is it would look like an army.
We roll into Vegas and set about getting our
hotel sorted. I decide to sign in as “Raoul Duke”. We dump our
suitcases and head off for the Thomas and Mack center, where the international
Drum and Bagpipe tattoo will be held. This was one of the reasons we were
here, to participate in a grand spectacle, touted by an ex-congressman to
be a “uniquely inspiring event” The place is a
cavern, seating for 18,000 people. Hundreds of pipers and drummers roam to
an fro, talking, farting, practicing, all of them appear uniquely inspired to
get this shit done with and start drinking.
I turn to Aaron, “By Saturday night, this place could well be a
Bellagio of vomit”
Aaron
looks around, considering the sheer potential, and chuckles “I think you may be
right”
We finish our duties, grab a bite to eat and then set off for Frankie’s.
Frankie’s
Baby!
A
couple times a year, Frankie’s is our home away from home in the neon hell of
Vegas.
Frankie’s.
Fuckin'
A...
The
First time we spent an evening at Frankie’s, it taught us things.
Our
friend Lauren took us there. Seemed innocent enough. A couple tropical drinks
in a bamboo paradise... We got a round, then another... I pulled out my ukulele
and struggled through a few tunes. More drinks were ordered. We moved to a
bigger table, more drinks, then to a booth in the back. Dark and
beautiful, a relaxing oasis... We had a few more drinks, and then a few more.
At some point we noticed that we were the only ones there, and that one of the
bartenders was vacuuming the floors.
It must be getting close to Last call, I thought.
Maybe
I said it out loud, because Aaron said, “What the fuck time is it?”
It
was 4 am.
Turns
out there is no last call in Vegas.
We
were fucked.
We
had to be up and at the venue in a few hours, so, at our guides’ advice, we
pushed on through.
Went
to the White cross diner. I remember I got a patty melt. I don’t remember much
else. Except that we saw a drunken Viking, marching along the road with a yard long margarita, and a necklace of Mardi gra beads. Somewhere there are pictures...
But I digress...
Frankie’s
is a Tiki bar tucked away off the strip and far from the clutter. A fantastic
oasis of strong tropical drinks and sixties strippers on the wide
screen. A place where it would take a hell of a lot to get tossed out,
and believe me, we have since tested the parameters. (but thoses are other stories) A place filled with
bamboo, thatch, Tikis, and a sense of ease. We were OK there. We were us. However,
I should probably mention that we were a bit of a sight, Leather Jackets and
Kilts in a sea of Hawaiian Shirts. The Bartender is a friend of ours, and many
of the rounds were on the house. We took advantage of that fact. I have a vague
memory of explaining to Jim the intensity that sometimes accompanies the
perfect buzz, the sharpness, the sense of possibility, but he just stared with
a goofy and slightly confused looking grin. I remember snapping my fingers at
him and saying “stay with me, this is important” But the next day he
insisted that I was just laughing and muttering gibberish as I zoomed
in and out of his focal plain like a weird foreign film through a fish eye
lens. But I think it was more the effect that the Kahiki Kai’s had on
him, because frankly, I knew what I was talking about, and goddamn it, it was
important.
Eventually
we knew it was time to go back to the hotel, as morning would come early, and
it would be a long day. Show in the morning, set up in the afternoon, tear
down, set up again, and show at night.
But
our friend Jay had a plan. He said he knew of a place where you could get the
perfect nightcap.
A
Bacon Martini
I
recoiled with delight, “Yes!” I shouted, “YES!”
So
with a promise that we would just grab one, and then go back to the hotel, CJ,
and I poured ourselves into Jay’s truck and headed across town to “The Double
Down”, a punk rock dive bar famous for the previously mentioned meat
cocktail.
It was indeed a dive, but an odd Vegas style dive. A place that had been
calculatedly thrashed. It looked old, but it really wasn’t. Signs advertising
drink specials adorned the walls, most done in sharpie on cardboard.
One advertised that if you puke, you clean. Another offered puke insurance for
$20. And yet another was for the “graveyard trifecta” , a Schlitz, “ass juice”
and a Twinkie for $5. A wall mural advised patrons to “shut up and
drink”. Good advice and we took it. We sidled up to the bar and Jay ordered a couple
bacon martinis and three plastic cups of the “ass juice”. Aptly named, as
it was nasty lookingand tasting stuff. My first guess was mix of Jagermister
and red bull. Comparatively, the bacon Martini was pleasant. Jay decided we
needed one more stop, so we drained the drinks and went around the corner to
“Buffalo's”
After posing for photos with the security guards outside, we went in and ensconsed ourselves at the bar. The place had a noticeable, and apparently quite intentional, lack of
females. The few we saw wanted pictures with us. Men in skirts, I guess...
We ordered rum and cokes, downed those and ordered more. The big screen TV assaulted us
with bubble gum pop, lip-synced by an army of girls who all seemed to resemble
Brittany spears.
At this point, I didn’t much care where we were.
We had a few drinks.
I
was in a mood. The scene was sharpening. Canted slightly sideways, perhaps, but
everything was becoming very clear. Probably the red bull kicking in?. A smooth
young man approached me, “whatcha drinkin?” he asked.
He
seemed overly friendly.
I
swiveled on my bar stool, with eyes wide and gritted teeth “Adrenochrome” I shouted,
hoisting my glass, “Fresh squeezed pineal gland”
His
smile faltered. The corner of his mouth twitched.
I
laughed, but it came out a stuttering hiss through my clenched teeth
“What?”
he asked, his smile seemed to show discomfort.
He
looked confused, scared, and began backing away slowly.
“GODDAMNED
RAW FUCKING ADRENAL!”, I yelled.
Then I turned to CJ. “I'M GOING UP!”
“Is it open” he asked, “Is the door open?”
The
door he was referring to was the crazy door, and It was indeed open.
“I'M
GOING UP!” I repeated, and then climbed my barstool up on to the bar, arms
waving wildly in the air, gyrating to some blonde in a mini kilt on the big
screen singing “Param Pam Pam”
The
crazy door is a funny thing.
Most people can’t see it when they’re sober. Even if they do, It’s there with a
sign that says, “Do not open”. And you obey the sign, because it must be there
for a reason. But after enough drinks the sign is gone, and the knocking
starts. Some times you open it up, see who's out there, and invite a few in.
Usually a beautiful hostess, who knows where there is a party, just up around
the next drink. “Come play” she says, and she does look like she knows a good
time. Sometimes it is far less eloquent. Sometimes you kick that fucker
open and barge on through without looking, and party with whoever, or
whatever, is on the other side.
But
it is a tricky thing. The more you open it, the easier it opens.
The
longer it is open, the harder it is to close.
Thompson was well acquainted with the crazy door. Eventually his was kicked in
too many times, and would never close again. A shattered frame on
bent hinges. That may have been what finally did him in.
Like
I said, It’s tricky.
Going
crazy for entertainment is an animal all to itself. It cannot be tamed; it cannot
be made to do tricks in the hope that someone will toss a coin.
No,
most times the way it works is you grab hold and ride it until it throws
you to the ground, or eats you.
Sometimes
both.
Then there is the rare occasion that it just swerves toward the curb and tells
you to get the fuck off its bus. Tonight was such a night. The bus was Jays
truck, but he pretty much just swung into the parking lot and said “get out”
A
good thing too. We had work in the morning, and now that was only a few hours
off.
I had to catch some sleep before it all started up again.
Back at
the hotel, CJ was in a sorry state.
“What
are you...What are you going to do?” he asked. He looked like he could barely focus,
slowly weaving back and forth as if on the deck of some unseen ship.
“I’m
going to try and get some fucking sleep. You should do the same”
“I
...I was thinking about going to the Casino, you wanna...”
“No”
I said, opening my room door and stepping inside.
“I’m
kinda hungry. You want to get something to eat?” He asked.
He looked sad,
pleading.
I
grabbed a bag of pretzels from the dresser and threw them, pegging him in the
Face.
“Get
the fuck out of here!” I said, and shut the door. He was still out there
muttering, but I didn’t care.
I
fumbled my way into bed and closed my eyes, trying to shut out the crazy.
In the beginning the door will close by itself, usually when you pass
out.
But
if it's not closed long enough, after a while, it just stops closing. Why
bother? They just put up a velvet rope, and the crazy lines up. And that's ok,
because they look like a fine bunch, at least through the thick bottom of a
rocks glass. So at the end of the night you wave them off and tune out as much
as possible, and hope that some sleep comes before the daylight
But, when that daylight comes, they look different.
Your
hostess is still there, but now she is a bloated, rotten, leather teddy bear
with an eel’s head. “Come play,” she hisses, sending out a fine mist that reeks
of whisky, sweat and bad breath. A smell you know well because you spent the
night with it. Tossing and turning in it, marinating, unable to go completely
to sleep because of the constant gibbering of the denizens behind the rope.
Paranoia begins top creep in as well. Sending out wispy tentacles like a fog
machine filled with cheap bacon flavored vodka.
I
concentrate on the hum of the air conditioner, and a few fitful hours of sleep
later was at the breakfast buffet, and then back in the van.
CJ was missing.
We called his cell phone several times, but he didn’t answer. Finally I went up
to his room and pounded on the door. Nothing. I pounded again, and gave it a
few kicks, but again, nothing. I was going to start screaming under the door,
but maid service was a couple rooms away, and starting to take notice, and the
last thing we needed was the cops. I called the front desk and had them ring
his room. I could hear the phone ringing through the door. The clerk came back
on, “sir, no one is picking up, would...” I hung up.
“I
think he’s dead,” I said as I climbed into the van. Lucky for him, and us, that
morning’s gig was more of a dress rehearsal, a warm up performance for local
school kids, so CJ going missing was more of an annoyance than tragedy. But if
he was dead, that was certainly going to put a twist on the weekend. We
speculated on what could have become of him. One thought was that he went back
to the casino and got in over his head. Maybe bet too big, couldn’t pay, and
was now part of the ghost army of the desert. Another thought was that he found
some early morning companionship, got rolled and was now naked and
probably dead in a dumpster somewhere. Or a dozen other scenarios, all of which
ended up with him dead, because we could think of no other reason to miss the
gig.
There
was another option, which we had not considered, and it turned out to be the
case. He had just slept in. dozing peacefully, dead only to the world, his
alarm, the phone calls, pounding on his door. As I learned later, about six
minutes before they were slated to go on, he called Aaron. From what I
understand it went something like this:
Aaron:
“Yeah?”
CJ:
“dude, I’m sorry, I...”
Aaron:
“FIVE MINUTES.” (click)
So
CJ hauled ass, and made it literally with only seconds to spare.
We
played the gig, and then got the hell out of there.
After
set up at the next gig, CJ and I commandeered Keith’s rental car and went on a
supply run, just a few essentials we were running low on.
The
cashier checked out our bounty. Four twelve packs of beer, a dozen grapefruit,
and a bag of pretzels, and then gave us an expressionless stare over her glasses,
but made no remarks.
Vegas
baby!
Back
at the hotel, CJ gave the keys back to Keith.
“You
didn’t wreck it did you?”
“No,”
CJ replied, “but Tiki puked in the trunk”
“Sorry,
“ I said, ”but CJ was driving all crazy, and I couldn’t get the lid open fast enough”
“Why
the hell were you in the trunk?”
“I
wanted a beer, and there’s the whole open container thing”
“Bullshit!”
Keith said, but his eyes narrowed, “but you didn’t, really, right?”
I
smiled sheepishly and shrugged, and we headed off with our spoils.
Our
room had developed a rich patina. Weapons, beer and whisky bottles covered most
surfaces, clothing and grapefruit peels littered the floor. The sink was filled
with ice and beer, with cases in reserve underneath. I grabbed a Grapefruit from
a bag on the night stand and made quick work with a switchblade, hacking it
into sixths and handing it out
“No
quarter given” I say, tearing into the dripping fruit.
We
knew where we were going, but discussed other possible destinations anyway.
Maybe more as an excuse to hang out, pound a few beers and a shot or two before
heading to Frankie’s.
Jim
poured himself an ambitious amount of Jameson in a hotel paper cup, and set
himself up on the dresser. Pretty soon he was on the floor, with an empty cup
and a big grin. We decide it was well time to head for Frankie’s, but Jim begs
off and whacks himself into a spin on the door frame then Ping-Pongs down
the hall, apparently feeling the full effect of a half a cup of good Irish
Whisky.
“Amateur” Aaron
mutters, putting on his fez and leather jacket “Let’s go”
At Frankie’s we grab a table, and then migrate to one of the
Hut / booths and settle in. We make a spectacle of ourselves and soon the next
table over joins us. Our feeble promise to not stay out too late is crushed
beneath the growing pile of swizzle sticks, and again, morning comes too early.
My alarm is a screech that pretty much just tells me I am fucked. I take a
shower, but keep hearing someone talking. Whispers. Hissing eel whispers. The
goddamn denizens behind the crazy door. Fuck.
The
physical aspect of the hangover is manageable, but something else is going on.
There are dark shapes in the corners, and enemies are everywhere…Weird clouds
of paranoia induced shadows that flutter just outside my vision. People walk by
oblivious to the growing under current, but I know it’s there.
I
can see it, even if they can’t
Holy
shit, did that guy have a tail?
What
the hell...
I try and look nonchalant, but I can feel the eyes.
The
eyes, the god damn eyes, weird alien insects, boring into my mind like whisky
seeking ticks...
CJ notices my twitchy behavior and asks, “What's going on?”
I
duck down slightly, “They’re going to fuck us” I tell him, “They’re gonna
fuck us and leave us in the desert”
He
looks around, and then asks, “Who is?”
“I
don’t know” I tell him, it’s almost a whisper. You never know who might be
listening. “we need to get out of here, I got to get my head on straight, or
this thing is gonna go to hell real quick”
“Your
right, “ he says, “We need some booze”
Aaron
shows up and I brief him on the situation. He agrees we need to get something
going, get ourselves in order. He seems to understand the threat. There are
plenty of weapons available, those fuckers wouldn't stand a chance in an open
fight. But maybe we just some strong drink, regroup. Figure out a plan to deal
with these bastards. Aaron mentions that we have a couple bottles of high-end
single malt in the van, but that seems a bit chewy at the moment. We decide to
see if we can scam a couple of drink tickets from the organizer of the event, Just
get a couple beers in the mix before we launch the assault.
But,
she does us one better in the form of all access passes to the VIP
tent. Breakfast buffet, full bar... I grab a tall cup of coffee, and fix
it up long pour of Jameson. I chug it down and repeat the process several
times.
The
shadows retreat and soon enough the world begins to look almost right again.
Navigating
the next few mornings ended up easy, what with the free bar.
After the last show of the trip, we head back
to the hotel.
Again we dig into the booze and grapefruit as
the troops amass. This time there is no talk of possible destinations. This
will be our last night in Vegas and there was nowhere better to spend it than Frankie’s.
Jim hems and haws, but decides to take it easy.
The night before he had called an ex in his drunken stupor, said some things
without his filter on. He said it was like he was watching himself on the phone
but was unable to intervene. I guess it scared him.
“Amateur” Aaron mutters, and we gear up for
our last night in paradise.
And it was evening, and it was morning, In
Vegas